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Studies have proven that restaurants generally do not turn a profit for at least two years. In Manhattan, most restaurants don't make it that long. Whether because we are a fickle lot, because of the expense of running the place, or merely because they weren't any good to begin with, it takes an exceptional operation to realize what its formula is and stick with it consistently. Here are a few of my favorites, broken down into categories:
The Four Seasons
(99 East 52nd Street, between Park and
Lexington Avenues)
This restaurant opened in 1959 in the glorious mid-century Seagram Building. Whenever I go through its doors I imagine what it would have been like to see JFK or a young Elizabeth Taylor dining in the perennially luxurious pool room. In fact, the first time I was there, at lunchtime on my birthday, I had to do a double-take when I realized that Henry Kissinger was seated at the table next to me. The clientele is not the only star attraction: the service is impeccable, the wine list is beyond impressive, and the food is always spectacular. It is undoubtedly my favorite destination restaurant in New York.
Restaurant Daniel
(60 East 65th Street, between Madison
and Park Avenues)
Daniel Bouloud's palace of a restaurant is one of those places where you think nothing bad could ever happen. It is stunningly, baroquely beautiful, with sensuous fabrics and flattering lighting. The food is exquisite and adoringly prepared and presented. The wine service is sublime. The lamb there is the best I have ever had, anywhere. In short, this is a very fancy place where people go for dress up occasions. If I were ever to propose to someone, I would do it here. No one would dare turn me down.
La Bonbonniere
(8th Avenue and West 4th Street)
Ok, this place is a dump. And I mean that in only the most loving way. When I first moved to New York, dives like this were everywhere. But with the mall-ing of Soho and the proliferation of Starbucks, they slowly and silently died out. I hope this one never does. La Bonbonniere is, essentially, the quintessential mom-and-pop diner and the formica in there is older than I am. They have at least one cat that roams around cozying up to you as you read the newspaper waiting for quite possibly the best blueberry pancakes on the planet, served on heavy diner crockery with a steaming cup-o-java. The windows are plastered with yellowing love letters to the place that echo my opinion. It's damn good, cheap food. Try to score a table outside on the sidewalk.
Café Asean
(117 West Tenth Street, between Greenwich
and 6th Avenues)
The first time I stumbled upon this Southeast Asian hole-in-the-wall over seven years ago, I thought it was adorable, but I was worried they wouldn't make a go of it because it was empty and very cheap. The next time I went back, it was a little more crowded, and I realized that they had a barebones, but very fun garden in the back. By the third or fourth time, my worries were over because word of mouth over the extremely reasonably priced tasty dishes kept more and more people coming back for more (so much more that the owner was able to open the decidedly tonier "Jefferson" just down the block). Really good, really reasonable, really cute. Go.
La Focaccia
(51 Bank Street at West Fourth Street)
I just hope this low carb craze doesn't put La Focaccia out of business. In addition to the terrific titular bread, baked in a brick oven that is also responsible for many of the other terrific dishes on the menu, the room itself is warm and inviting with long tapered candles in all of the large windows that surround this priceless corner of the Village. The Italian owner is exactly what you would hope for in a place like this: attentive, compassionate, and it doesn't hurt that he looks like a leading man in an Italian movie. The roasted meats are to die for, the pasta is delicious, and the desserts make you screw the guilt and just enjoy it. La Focaccia looks particularly beautiful at holiday time, with a gorgeous Christmas tree dominating the center of the room, candles, and red poinsettias placed strategically around the cozy space.
Five Points
(31 Great Jones Street, between Bowery and
Lafayette Streets)
Five Points now is better than it was when it opened about five years ago. The New American cuisine is sharper, the flavor pairings are more thoughtful, and the staff is friendlier. And it wasn't bad to begin with. The lighting is extremely flattering and the sound of the trickling stream in the center of the room is soothing. The last time I was there, I placed my order and the waitress helpfully advised that I try the special instead because they had all tried it and she thought it was the best thing on the menu. That kind of advice can go either way really fast with me, but the manner she projected led me to defer. She was right.
Prune
(54 East First Street, between First and Second
Avenues)
I love this little place. It is always jammed and the people there are always having fun. The chef and owner, Gabrielle Hamilton, begins the fun in the kitchen by designing unexpected, playful flavor combinations, and the busy, quirky, and competent staff continue the experience in the dining room. Ms. Hamilton takes the menu design to the drinks list and several of the most popular drinks of the last decade I had here first--Mojitos, anyone? In short, Prune is a place for food lovers, people who like to party, and folks who just generally "get it." You'd best make a reservation, or be prepared to wait, because Prune is tiny and people who come here don't like to leave.
Café Loup
(105 West 13th Street, Between Sixth
and Seventh Avenues)
Zagat Survey says "nothing surprising, nothing disappointing" at Café Loup, and I'll take that as a compliment. I have never had a bad meal here and always had a good time. Twenty-three years in business and still going strong, Café Loup has a loyal and devoted following that includes neighborhood residents, celebrities (the fashion designer Isaac Mizrahi was there on my last visit) and just general lovers of great bistro food.